Haute couture (French: haute – high, couture – dressmaking, sewing) , as Wikipedia informs us, is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothes, made by hand from exclusive and unusual fabrics. Perfection, hard work and craft.
As a little girl, Elsa Schiaparelli used to play in the garden, putting seeds in her nose and ears, imagining flowers and plant growing and cupping her face. And as a part of ‘house DNA’ astrology was another inspiration for creative director, Bertran Guyon. What we could spot on runway were silhouettes inspired by post-WWII designs Schiaparelli was creating – hourglass structures, form for women to fit in to, as well as A-shapes. Although we could spot few ‘back to Earth’ looks, they were completed with a touch of sparkle and contrasting cow-boy shoes. Excellent craft of botanical embroidery and feather work combined with bright, powerful colors and avantgarde shapes created an amazing illustration of wild dreams after psychedelics (or children fairy tale).
Iris Van Harpen
Van Harpens starting point was the concept of hybrid – female form mixed with animals and plants, seen throughout mitology and history throughout the World. The official Queen of Haute Couture came up with extremely interesting art of colors, unpredicted and revolutionary shapes and kinetic illusions and forms. The show was opened with an amazing wing-inspired gown, but it only got better with every look. We could spot pleaded human-bird dresses, unreal 3D printed wavey dress, extraordinary flower-inspired prints in pastels and layered dresses with hidden faces on them! If I were there, I would be jaw dropped for the next few hours after the show.
Acne Studios founder and creative director Jonny Johansson showed his ready to wear collection for fall/winter 2019 season with looks, choosing Paris during the Haute Couture week.
We could spot amazingly designed coats with rounded shoulders, extra-oversized fur coats and draped tights, baggy pants with strongly accented waists and V-shape décolletage. Johansson himself claims the source of inspiration in young generations perspective of high fashion, expressing power and femininity in a minimalistic, modern way. Runway was overwhelmed by neutral colors, mostly office-greyish and ivory tones, where burned orange and only three patterned looks were an amazing eye-catching accents.